The 10 most iconic watches of all time
- Feb 1, 2025
- 4 min read
By Walty, Pre-owned Watch Specialist at Waltana, Lausanne
Some watches endure not because they are fashionable, but because they solved a problem elegantly, set a standard others have spent decades trying to match, or simply distilled the essence of what a watch can be. The ten references below are the ones collectors, first-time buyers, and specialists return to again and again, not out of habit, but because they have earned their place. Whether you are buying your first serious watch or building a collection, these are the models worth understanding.
Rolex Datejust
Best for: everyday wear, office, formal occasions
Launched in 1945 to mark Rolex's fortieth anniversary, the Datejust was the first automatic wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o'clock, a complication so useful it became an industry standard. Its case proportions, Cyclops date lens, and Jubilee bracelet have remained largely unchanged across eight decades, which is itself a statement about how well the original design was resolved. In the pre-owned market, the Datejust is one of the most liquid references available, with a wide range of dial configurations and sizes to suit most wrists and tastes.
Omega Seamaster
Best for: sport, diving, casual and smart-casual wear
The Seamaster has been in continuous production since 1948, making it one of the longest-running watch families in the industry. Its professional diving references, particularly the 300M series, combine genuine water resistance, robust construction, and a movement credibility that comes from Omega's in-house Co-Axial calibres. The Seamaster occupies a strong position in the pre-owned market as a technically serious watch at accessible price points relative to comparable Swiss alternatives.
Patek Philippe nautilus
Best for: smart casual to formal, collector-grade wear
Designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1976, the Nautilus created the category of the luxury steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak it was designed to rival. Its horizontally grooved dial, porthole-shaped case with integrated bracelet, and the finishing standards that come with the Patek Philippe Seal make it one of the most studied references in the secondary market. Certain Nautilus references have appreciated significantly over the past two decades, though the market has normalised from its peak speculation years.
Cartier Santos
Best for: daily wear, office, dress occasions
The Santos holds a particular place in horological history as one of the earliest purpose-built wristwatches, commissioned around 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed to read the time without taking his hands off the controls. Its square case, exposed screws, and Roman numeral dial have remained the template for over a century. For collectors who find the round case formula limiting, the Santos offers genuine heritage and a design vocabulary that is entirely its own.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Best for: statement everyday wear, smart occasions
The Royal Oak is the watch that redefined what luxury could look like. Designed by Gérald Genta overnight in 1971 and launched at the Basel fair the following year, it arrived in stainless steel at a price that shocked an industry accustomed to associating precious metals with prestige. Its octagonal bezel, eight hexagonal screws, and tapisserie dial are among the most recognisable design elements in watchmaking. The Royal Oak is covered in depth in our dedicated article on Gérald Genta and the birth of the Royal Oak.
Breitling Navitimer
Best for: aviation enthusiasts, chronograph lovers, casual to sporty wear
Introduced in 1952 as a functional instrument for pilots, the Navitimer features a circular slide rule bezel that allows airspeed, fuel consumption, and climb rate calculations to be performed without additional tools. It is a large, technically complex watch that rewards the wearer who understands what it was designed to do. In the collector market, early references with the Venus 178 movement are particularly sought after.
Tudor Black Bay
Best for: everyday wear, diving, casual weekends
The Black Bay draws directly from Tudor's mid-century dive watch heritage, referencing dial and case details from references supplied to professional divers in the 1950s and 1960s. What makes the modern Black Bay significant is not nostalgia alone, but the combination of genuine in-house manufacture calibres, robust construction, and pricing that sits well below comparable Swiss alternatives. For a first serious watch, few references offer comparable value. For a deeper understanding of Tudor's history and current positioning, read our article on Tudor turns 100.
IWC Pilot (pilot’s watch)
Best for: casual, aviation-inspired wear, everyday use
IWC's pilot watches trace their origins to instrument-grade cockpit timepieces developed in the late 1930s, where legibility under difficult conditions was the primary brief. The design language that resulted, large Arabic numerals, high-contrast dials, prominent crown, and luminescent hands, has proved remarkably durable as an aesthetic. The Big Pilot in particular has become a reference point for large-case watches that justify their diameter through proportion rather than decoration.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Best for: dress and formal wear, collectors drawn to Art Deco design
Created in 1931 for polo players who needed to protect their watch dial during play, the Reverso features a rectangular case that slides and rotates within its own frame, presenting a plain metal back when reversed. It is one of the few watches where the technical solution and the aesthetic result are equally elegant. The back panel has also become a canvas for engraving and enamel work, making personalised Reverso pieces some of the most intimate commissions in fine watchmaking.
Tag Heuer Carrera
Best for: motorsport-inspired, sporty-elegant everyday wear
The Carrera was introduced in 1963, named after the Carrera Panamericana road race, and designed with the legibility demands of professional motorsport timing in mind. Its clean chronograph layout, with uncluttered registers and a dial architecture optimised for reading at speed, set a standard for sports chronographs that remains relevant. The Carrera is an accessible entry point into serious Swiss chronograph collecting.
Each of these references shares three qualities that distinguish enduring watches from merely popular ones. They have functional or historical significance that goes beyond aesthetics. They are supported by established service networks and active secondary markets. And they have broad enough appeal to work across occasions, lifestyles, and collections of different ambitions. Choosing among them is largely a matter of identifying which design language, wearing context, and price point aligns with your own.
Browse our current selection of new and pre-owned luxury watches available in Switzerland, or contact us directly if you are looking for a specific reference from any of these collections.
