The complete guide to watch bracelet & strap types: from Jubilee to NATO
- Waltana
- Nov 7
- 9 min read
The bracelet or strap can make or break a watch. While collectors obsess over movements, dials, and complications, the piece connecting watch to wrist often determines comfort, wearability, and overall aesthetic. From Rolex's iconic Oyster to military-born NATO straps, from Renaissance-era Milanese mesh to modern rubber, each bracelet type carries its own history, advantages, and character. This comprehensive guide explores every major bracelet and strap type, helping you understand which best suits your watch, wrist, and lifestyle.
Understanding the terminology
Before diving into specific types, it's important to understand the distinctions:
Watch bands: The broad category encompassing all wrist attachments, regardless of material
Watch straps: Specifically non-metal options made from leather, fabric, rubber, or synthetic materials
Watch bracelets: Exclusively metal constructions, typically featuring links, mesh, or integrated designs
Throughout this guide, we'll use these terms appropriately while recognizing that in casual conversation, they're often used interchangeably.
Metal bracelets: Rolex's trinity
Oyster bracelet: the utilitarian icon
History: Introduced by Rolex in the 1930s (later patented), the Oyster bracelet embodies the old-school tool-watch side of Rolex's personality. Its sturdy three-link construction has remained largely unchanged for nearly 80 years, representing the most recognizable bracelet design in watchmaking.
The Oyster is arguably the most recognizable bracelet design in watchmaking, a timeless classic featuring a clean and sturdy three-link layout that's since been adopted (and adapted) by countless other brands. Say "Oyster" and most watch lovers immediately picture the Submariner or Explorer—and for good reason.
Design characteristics:
Three broad, flat links
All-brushed finish on sports models (Submariner)
Brushed outer links with polished center links on dressier models (GMT-Master II, Daytona)
Various clasp options: Oysterclasp, Oysterlock, or Glidelock depending on model
Clasp variations:
Oysterclasp: Standard folding clasp on "classic" line (Datejust, Oyster Perpetual, Sky-Dweller)
Oysterlock: Added security for "professional" models (Air-King, Explorer, Daytona, GMT-Master II)
Glidelock: On-the-fly micro-adjustment for aquatic Professional watches (Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea, Yacht-Master)—Rolex's most advanced clasp system
Advantages
Extremely durable and robust
Timeless, versatile design
Comfortable for daily wear
Easy to clean and maintain
Sportier, more understated aesthetic
Available across Rolex sport collection
Considerations
Less dressy than Jubilee or President
Can feel less flexible than five-link designs
Polished center links show scratches easily
May stretch over decades of wear
Best for: Daily wearers seeking durability and versatility; sports watch enthusiasts; those preferring understated elegance; anyone wanting maximum longevity.
Jubilee bracelet: refined versatility
History: Originally released in 1945 to commemorate Rolex's 40th anniversary, the Jubilee bracelet was introduced on the Datejust model. It managed to improve on several elements of the original Oyster watch band, adding a more elegant and refined look. Initially available only in solid gold, Rolex later introduced two-tone (Rolesor) and stainless steel versions.
The Jubilee bracelet features a distinctive five-link construction, providing high level comfort and flexibility. The intricate design combines smaller, polished center links with larger, brushed outer links, creating a unique and sophisticated appearance.
Design characteristics:
Five-piece semi-circular link design
Three narrow, mirror-polished center links
Two wider, brushed outer links
More flexible and conforming than Oyster
Creates a "woven basket" or mesh-like appearance
From a practical standpoint, many seasoned watch wearers prefer the Jubilee bracelet because its design allows the watch band to "breathe," making it more comfortable for the wearer. The shorter links and greater number of them create a more supple feel that many describe as "like silk on your wrist."
Advantages:
Exceptionally comfortable due to flexibility
Conforms beautifully to wrist shape
Dressier appearance than Oyster
Versatile enough for formal and casual wear
Hides scratches better than Oyster
Adds elegance to sports watches
Considerations:
More delicate appearance than Oyster
Polished links show fingerprints easily
Can feel "flashier" than some prefer
May stretch slightly over time
More complex to clean due to multiple links
Best For: Those wanting dress-sport versatility; anyone prioritizing comfort; buyers seeking a more elegant aesthetic; GMT-Master II "Pepsi" or "Batman" enthusiasts wanting vintage-meets-modern style.
President bracelet: the ultimate status symbol
History: Since its release in 1956, the President bracelet has distinguished itself from other watch bands in two very distinct ways. First, unlike the other two offerings, this bracelet is only available in 18k gold or platinum, making it a more luxurious option. Second, it is only available on the Day-Date line of watches. The bracelet takes its name from a close association with former US presidents, most importantly Lyndon Johnson.
Rolex needed a bracelet that would match the grandeur of their newest release, the Day-Date, a groundbreaking watch that was the first to display an automatically changing date on the dial. They created a bracelet that was bold, beautiful, and reserved only for the brand's most prestigious models.
Design characteristics:
Three-piece semi-circular link design with "little D-shaped links"
Rounded, almost fluid look as it catches light
Noticeably more substantial and weighty on wrist
Concealed folding Crownclasp for seamless appearance
Exclusively in 18kt gold (yellow, white, Everose) or 950 platinum
In terms of its design style, it is somewhere in between the Oyster and the Jubilee—more elegant than the former, and less delicate than the latter. The President has serious weight to it, and there's absolutely no mistaking that you've got a Rolex on your wrist. The semi-circular three-link design hugs your wrist nicely with a reassuring weight that screams luxury and success.
Advantages:
Ultimate prestige and status
Exclusively precious metals
Substantial, luxurious feel
Concealed clasp for seamless look
Perfectly balanced between sporty and dressy
Historical significance (presidents, world leaders)
Considerations:
Only available on Day-Date (high entry price)
Exclusively precious metals (no steel option)
Heavy weight may not suit everyone
Very formal/dressy for casual situations
Significant investment
Best For: Those seeking the ultimate status symbol; Day-Date buyers; anyone wanting maximum prestige; collectors who appreciate precious metals; those comfortable with substantial wrist presence.
Mesh bracelets: from Milan to the Deep Sea
Milanese Mesh: Renaissance Elegance
History: Milanese watch bands are called after the Italian town Milan, where they originate from. The design can be traced back far to the 13th century, when it was used as a special chain-mail. During the Renaissance and baroque eras, goldsmiths in Milan made mesh from hand-wound wire spiral coils, which they fashioned into bracelets and necklaces. Around 1920s, German watch straps manufacturers, Staib and Vollmer, started producing mesh watch bands, causing a skyrocket in popularity.
Originally developed in Milan in the 19th century, the Milanese—or mesh—bracelet brings an old-world craftsmanship to modern watch design. Often likened to chain mail, its tightly woven metal links create a smooth, flexible surface that hugs the wrist with surprising comfort.
Design characteristics:
Tightly woven fine mesh from thin metal wires
Typically stainless steel (also available in gold, platinum)
Smooth, silky feel on wrist
Infinitely adjustable via sliding clasp
Dense construction (~3mm thick mesh)
Manufacturing process: While it's possible to manufacture Milanese mesh entirely automatically, the quality is significantly lower than handmade versions. A great deal of qualified handwork is needed to ensure the smooth and attractive finish expected from quality mesh bracelets.
Advantages:
Exceptionally comfortable—no hair pulling
Infinitely adjustable fit
Elegant, sophisticated appearance
Works with dress and casual watches
Durable—no links to break
Timeless aesthetic
Breathable design
Considerations:
Can feel slightly rigid compared to link bracelets
Fine mesh may catch on clothing
Quality varies dramatically by manufacturer
Best proportions with watches under 40mm
Some find the mesh "too delicate" looking
Notable uses: Brands like Skagen and Breitling have used them and still have magnificent offerings of mesh bands. For example, the bracelet that came with Breitling's SuperOcean Heritage series of watches continues to follow modern editions.
Best for: Dress watch owners; those with vintage watches (especially 1960s-70s pieces); anyone prioritizing comfort; watch enthusiasts in warm climates (longer lifespan than leather); collectors seeking elegant versatility.
Shark mesh: the diver's choice
History: Omega created Shark Mesh for its original Omega Seamaster 600m Ploprof. Although the bracelet was not truly prone to shark bites, it was more robust than standard watch bands because it had no pins between its links. Its intertwined loops of stainless steel mesh made it exceptionally durable for professional diving.
The most noticeable feature of the Shark Mesh strap is its comparatively large links. Most other mesh bracelets tend to be tightly woven with small links, but the Shark Mesh is the complete opposite. As such, many people view it as the most comfortable mesh option, since the relaxed nature of the links allows for a smooth drape around the wrist.
Design characteristics:
Large, loosely woven metal links
No pins between links (one-piece construction)
Exceptional breathability due to gaps
Heavier, more robust feel than Milanese
Modern versions include diver's extension (up to 26mm for wetsuits)
As Omega Seamaster Ploprof 600m was one of the largest, heaviest and most robust diver's watches ever made, its Shark mesh band was no less, and yet it had great breath-ability due to the space in its loops. The large links were necessary to hold such substantial watches.
Advantages:
Exceptionally comfortable and flexible
Superior breathability
Extremely durable (no pins to break)
Perfect for diving and water sports
Distinctive vintage-tool-watch aesthetic
Handles wetsuit expansion
Considerations:
Very casual/sporty appearance
May look disproportionate on smaller watches
Original versions not adjustable (modern ones are)
Can snag on clothing due to large gaps
Less refined than Milanese
Best for: Vintage dive watch owners (especially 1970s divers); those prioritizing maximum comfort; divers needing wetsuit compatibility; anyone wanting distinctive tool-watch aesthetics; Omega Ploprof enthusiasts.
Fabric straps: military heritage
NATO strap: the military classic
History: Originally developed for British Army soldiers in the 1970s, the NATO strap originally debuted under the name "G10", a title taken from the form for requisition. Although similar styles can be traced back to World War II, this was the first appearance under its contemporary title. When the Cold War ended, G10 straps were sold in military surplus shops, all branded with unique NATO Surplus Numbers. As the style gained popularity following its introduction in 1973, military personnel began to customize their watch straps, incorporating the colours of their regimental ties and/or stable belts, creating the colourful striped patterns NATO straps are known for.
First utilized in watches issued to battlefield troops in the early 20th Century, a NATO strap is a one-piece "pass-through" strap, usually made of nylon or some other fabric, that loops under the watch's case and through its spring bars to hold it securely in place on the wrist.
Design characteristics:
One-piece construction passing under case
Typically nylon (also canvas, leather variants)
Standard "Admiralty Grey" for authentic military issue
Numerous colorways and patterns available
Simple rectangular hardware and keepers
Security feature: The genius of NATO design is that the strap passes under the watch case. Even if one spring bar breaks, the watch remains attached (albeit dangling) to your wrist—a potentially life-saving feature in military combat situations.
Advantages:
Extremely affordable
Infinite style options (colors, patterns)
Easy to swap (no tools needed)
Superior security (one-piece construction)
Comfortable and breathable
Washable and quick-drying
Historical military significance
Considerations:
Very casual appearance
Adds thickness under watch case
Not suitable for formal occasions
Fabric can fray over time
Hardware may corrode if cheap quality
Related styles:
Zulu strap: NATO adaptation with thicker weave, more substantial metal hardware, rounded loops, oval buckle
Perlon strap: Woven nylon threads creating "nylon chainmail" texture, offering near-infinite adjustability
Marine Nationale (MN) straps: Made from elastic with adjustable buckle, designed for easy wetsuit removal
Best for: Casual daily wear; those wanting affordability and variety; military/field watch owners; anyone seeking tool-watch aesthetics; collectors who frequently change straps; budget-conscious buyers.
Modern materials
Rubber straps: sports watch evolution
While rubber straps retain strong associations with sports and tool watches, some high-end luxury watches now offer rubber strap options. Hublot famously released the first gold watch on a rubber strap back in 1980, merging luxury with functionality.
Design characteristics:
Waterproof and highly durable
Lightweight and comfortable
Available in numerous colors and textures
Often features integrated or fitted designs
Easy to clean and maintain
Rolex Oysterflex: Rolex's modern rubber option blends materials—high-performance elastomer over a superelastic metal blade (titanium-nickel core), merging flexibility with strength. The underside features wing-like curved cushions that raise the strap slightly from skin, allowing airflow while stabilizing the watch. Available on certain precious-metal references of Daytona, Yacht-Master, and Sky-Dweller.
Advantages:
Waterproof
Lightweight and sporty
Highly durable in harsh conditions
Hypoallergenic (no metal contact)
Wide variety of colors
Affordable replacement
Considerations:
Very casual/sporty appearance
Can become sticky in hot/humid conditions
May degrade over time (especially cheap versions)
Some find rubber less "premium" feeling
Best for: those in hot/humid climates; active lifestyle wearers; anyone prioritizing water resistance; sport watch enthusiasts; those with metal allergies.
Leather straps: timeless elegance
The practice of attaching watches to leather straps dates back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century. British soldiers wore their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in jacket pockets due to extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson were converting pocket watches into wristwatches with proper leather straps.
Common Leather Types:
Calfskin: Classic choice, smooth and refined
Alligator/Crocodile: Luxury option with distinctive scale pattern
Cordovan: Horse leather, extremely durable and develops patina
Ostrich: Distinctive quill pattern, durable and supple
Suede: Casual, textured option
Advantages:
Classic, elegant appearance
Comfortable and breaks in over time
Develops unique patina
Suitable for dress watches
Easily replaceable
Wide variety of colors and finishes
Considerations:
Not waterproof
Wears out faster than metal (1-3 years typical)
Can develop odor from sweat
Requires care and conditioning
Not ideal for hot/humid climates
Best For: Dress watch owners; those prioritizing elegant aesthetics; collectors with multiple straps; anyone wanting traditional watchmaking heritage; formal occasion wear.
Choosing the right bracelet or strap
Decision framework
Consider your use case:
Daily office wear: Oyster, Jubilee, leather, Milanese
Sports/active lifestyle: Oyster, rubber, NATO, Shark Mesh
Formal occasions: President, leather (alligator), Jubilee, Milanese
Diving/water sports: Oyster (with Glidelock), rubber, Shark Mesh
Casual weekend: NATO, Perlon, rubber, Jubilee
Hot/humid climates: Mesh (Milanese or Shark), rubber, NATO, steel bracelets
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