Gérald Genta: the Picasso of watchmaking

Royal Oak Designed by Gerald Genta

It's hard to imagine that arguably the most significant watches of the 20th century all flowed from the pen of one man, Gérald Genta. From the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that revolutionized luxury watchmaking to the Patek Philippe Nautilus that defined elegant sports watches, from the Universal Genève Polerouter to his own brand's Grande Sonnerie—one of the world's most complicated wristwatches—Genta's influence permeates modern horology. Christie's auction house calls his work "the Fabergé of watches," while The Wall Street Journal dubbed them the "world's most complicated and pricey watches." This is the story of the designer who transformed watchmaking forever.

The early years: from 10 francs per design to industry legend

Born in Geneva (1931-2011)

Gérald Charles Genta was born on May 1, 1931 in Geneva, Switzerland. Genta received a diploma in watchmaking when he was 21 and then worked as a freelance designer for the likes of Universal Genève.

According to his wife, Mme Evelyne Genta, in the early days her husband "went around to the different watch companies selling his designs at just 10 Swiss francs per design". After some time they would return, hand back any designs they didn't want and pay Genta 10 CHF for each of the ones they wanted. He would do this until he had 1,000 CHF and then come home.

It was during this period that he built up a reputation in the watch industry for being this crazy artist in a car, with great designs. It is this incredible ability to produce high-quality designs at a high frequency that underpin all the legendary stories that we all know about Genta today, whether it be sketching the original Nautilus on a napkin while at dinner, or taking just one night to come up with the Royal Oak.

"Some days he would design two watches and then at dinner he would ask you which one you preferred. And you had to make sure you said the right one."

— Evelyne Genta

The masterpieces for other brands

Universal Genève Polerouter (1954): the first stroke of genius

The SAS Polerouter is widely regarded as his first stroke of genius, which Genta designed at the young age of only 23 in 1954 and during his time at Universal Genève. At just 23 years old, Genta created the Polerouter for Universal Genève pilots flying over the North Pole, hence the name.

Crafted in stainless steel with a slim 35mm case, the Polerouter first housed the Calibre 215 before evolving to include the innovative micro-rotor Calibre 69—the first commercially available Microrotor movement for SAS airlines. The watch was a great success and word of Genta's talent quickly spread. The design was already ahead of its time: slim, minimalist, balanced, and elegant.

Omega Constellation (1959): becoming a "star designer"

In 1959, Omega asked Gerald Genta to review, refresh and renew their strategic Constellation range which was their flagship collection. It is thanks to the Maestro's renewal of this range that the watchmaking company has been very well ranked for so many years.

It was from the design of this piece that Gerald Genta began to be perceived as a "star designer". The Constellation marks the end of distinct period for the designer, as he would soon turn to far more groundbreaking designs.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1970-1972): the revolution

In 1970, the House of Audemars Piguet approached the designer for a watch that would become the brand's most iconic piece: The Royal Oak. The story of its creation has become legend:

"The Royal Oak was revolutionary. One afternoon, at four o'clock, Mr. Georges Golay, the Managing Director of Audemars Piguet, rings me up and tells me: 'Mr. Genta, I need a steel sports watch that has never been done before, I want it to be something totally new and waterproof.' On my part, I understood that what he was looking for was a brand-new waterproofing technology. 'I want the design by tomorrow morning.' I designed it overnight and my idea was to replicate the system of the scaphander's helmet on the watch case. With the eight screws and with the joint visible on the case's exterior."

— Gérald Genta

Inspired by a vintage diving helmet attached to the rest of the suit with screws, the model was sketched in one night only. He transferred the octagonal shape to the design of this piece, keeping the screws on the bezel. The Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch to be made of steel. This was the first time in the history of modern watchmaking that this material was considered as a precious metal.

The Royal Oak broke the mold in several ways:

• Material: First high-end watch made from stainless steel, previously considered too "common" for luxury

• Design: Octagonal bezel secured with visible screws, patterned "Tapisserie" dial, and integrated bracelet

• Size: At 39mm, it was considered large for its era, earning the nickname "Jumbo"

In 1970, I designed the watch. And it took one more year before industrial production, which finally came about in 1972. Initially met with skepticism, the Royal Oak soon became a massive success, establishing a new category in the market: the luxury sports watch.

Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976): sketched on a napkin

Upon the request of Philippe Stern in 1976, Gerald Genta designed an exceptional piece, still considered today as a benchmark. Similarly to the Royal Oak, it too was inspired by the nautical world, but this time taken from the portholes of the transatlantic ships. The watch was named Nautilus in tribute to Captain Nemo's submarine in Jules Verne's novel "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea".

As the story goes, he sketched the watch on a paper napkin in a restaurant. Genta's design process for what would become the Nautilus was famously quick; he reportedly sketched the design in just five minutes while dining at a restaurant.

Introduced in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus shared some design DNA with the Royal Oak but had its unique features:

• Design: Porthole-shaped case with "ears" on either side, inspired by the hinges of a ship's hatch

• Distinctive horizontally embossed dial and a more rounded, softer aesthetic compared to the angular Royal Oak

• Material: Like the Royal Oak, initially released in stainless steel, challenging luxury watch material norms

• Versatility: Designed to be suitable for both formal and casual settings

While it took time for the Nautilus to gain the same iconic status as the Royal Oak, it eventually became a cornerstone of Patek Philippe's collection.

IWC Ingenieur SL (1976): the third 70s icon

Launched in 1976, the designer gave it a unique and incomparable touch of five screws on the bezel. Although its design has evolved since, Gerald Genta's mark will always remain preeminent, even on the latest editions of the IWC Ingenieur.

Gerald Genta created the Ingenieur SL during the quartz crisis, a challenging period for IWC and the entire watch industry. Genta was commissioned to find a new visual identity for IWC's Ingenieur, the manufacturer's first anti-magnetic watch for civilian use developed in the 1950s. In his design of the new, robust Ingenieur model in stainless steel, Genta successfully highlighted its distinctive technical character. The watch's integrated H-link bracelet, structured dial and, above all, the screw-on bezel with five recesses became the Ingenieur SL's trademark features.

Bulgari Bulgari (1977): from roman coins to wrist icons

The design of the famous Bulgari-Bulgari bears its roots in the ancient Roman coin. From this, Gerald Genta designed a watch that would become an emblem for Bulgari, even impacting on the style of other brands. The purity and simplicity of this model translated into a huge success.

Cartier Pasha (1985): maximalist design for the 80s

Around 1985, Cartier invited Genta to redesign an idiosyncratic watch first made 50 years prior for the Pasha of Marakesh. Genta's Pasha de Cartier takes the model's basic shape and layout – its round, nearly bulbous case shape, Vendôme lugs and oversized crown – then turns everything up to 11. The cases have large dial openings and the bracelets are shiny and jewelry-like, while a small chain connecting the crown to the case makes the Genta references unmistakable from a distance.

The Gerald Genta brand (1969-2000): creative freedom unleashed

Founding his own company

Alongside his collaborations with the finest watch brands, Genta created his own company in 1969, developing his eponymous brand and producing exceptional pieces for unique clients. Constantly creating and innovating, he combined new shapes and materials with major watchmaking complexities.

In 1969, Genta had already established his own company to produce custom timekeepers, but his eponymous brand only took off in the early 1980s. Always working towards an unprecedented idea, largely inspired by painters and innovative designers, he quickly earned respect and high esteem from the industry and watchmaking enthusiasts throughout the world.

Amongst Genta's most faithful clients were the monarchs of Brunei, Oman, Saudi Arabia, and Spain. Genta's clients have included athletes, business people, musicians, movie stars, politicians, and royalty, including Prince Rainier of Monaco, King Hassan II of Morocco, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain, King Fahd of Saudi Arabia and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother of England.

The Gefica Safari (1984): bronze innovation

This watch was made in 1984 following a request from three safari hunters. The name of this piece comes from the aggregation of the first two letters of each of the hunter's names (Geoffroy, Fissore et Canali), spelling GEFICA.

This model designed in bronze, with moon phases and a compass, quickly became an icon in the world of watchmaking, eventually inspiring different versions. The revolutionary use of bronze for the covering solved the problem of hunting visibility as this material did not reflect the sunlight.

Genta had begun innovating with new materials for watchmaking purposes as early as 1984 when he unveiled the Gefica, a watch designed for big game hunters that had a matte, non-reflective bronze case as well as a compass integrated into its clasp.

The Fantasy Collection (1980s): Disney meets Haute Horlogerie

In the eighties, Gerald Genta obtained a license exclusively from the Walt Disney company to design limited edition watches, which incorporated iconic characters such as Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck or Minnie Mouse, confined to 18 carat gold and then steel casing. This range, entitled 'Fantasy', was defined by high-precision watch mechanisms.

During the 1980s, Genta obtained special licensing with The Walt Disney Company and distributed a limited edition of Disney character watches to the public; previously, they had been an unofficial private request by one of Genta's repeat customers. The dials consisted of illustrations of Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck, Scrooge and Goofy, with cases made of 18 carat gold. Designed in Le Brassus, Switzerland, the watches retailed between $3,250–$3,650 in 1988.

Don't laugh. These were high-end mechanical watches with jump hour complications—featuring Disney characters. Now they're some of the most collectible Genta pieces out there.

The Grande Sonnerie (1994): the pinnacle achievement

In 1994, he designed the Grande Sonnerie Retro, the world's most complicated wristwatch, and priced at approximately CHF2 million. One of his most famous pieces, the Grand Sonnerie, featuring the same chimes as Big Ben, was considered as one of the world's most sophisticated wristwatches.

In 1995, after five years of research and development, Gérald Genta unveiled the Grande Sonnerie, the wristwatch considered to be the most sophisticated and complex in the world. This watch was a first in many ways, in particular it included more than a thousand spare parts.

The pinnacle of Genta's watchmaking arrived in 1994, when the brand debuted the Grande Sonnerie, then the world's most complicated—and most expensive—complicated wristwatch. The top-of-the-line versions of the model were powered by an automatic movement made up of over 1,000 parts, incorporating a grande et petite sonnerie carillon with Westminster chime on four hammers and gongs, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and dual power reserve indicators.

The watch, at the time anyway, was considered one of the most complicated watches in the world. It utilized over 1,000 parts and a dizzying array of complications, including a Westminster Four-Hammer chime. The actually number of these watches that were designed and created by Genta is a little convoluted, but they expect that around 25 of these were ever produced—each with an original design.

The Octo Collection: Genta's signature aesthetic

The aesthetics of the Gerald Genta Octo Collection are defined by a round bezel and octagonal dial. Octagonal / Gefica Cases – where the Genta design language really came alive. Integrated lugs, wild materials, and that unmistakable silhouette that you can spot from across the room.

Retrograde complications: Genta's signature

Many Gerald Genta watches feature fantastic complications, though the main appeal remains the timepieces' esteemed designs. The Arena Collection includes the Spice Retro, Biretro, Chrono Quattro, PC GMT, and Tourbillon lines.

The Gefica Biretro incorporates a self-winding movement and two rows of titanium beads along the case-band. Uniquely, the dial is concave while the sapphire crystal is convex. The Chrono Quattro features jumping hours, retrograde minutes, chronograph retrograde hours and minutes, and central chronograph seconds.

Jump hour + retrograde complications became his signature—still unmatched.

The End of an Era and New Beginnings

Timeline of Genta's Company:

• 1969: Genta founds his eponymous brand

• 1970s-1990s: Peak creativity with Gefica, Disney, Grande Sonnerie

• 1983-1999: Gérald and Evelyne travel the world developing and promoting the brand

• 1998: Sells brand to Singapore-based The Hour Glass

• 2000: Bulgari acquires Gerald Genta brand

• 2000: Genta creates new brand "Gerald Charles" after selling

• 2003: Sells Gerald Charles but remains designer-in-chief

• 2010: Gerald Genta watches marketed solely under Bulgari brand

• 2011: Bulgari bought by LVMH; Genta passes away August 17 at age 80

• 2019: Bulgari celebrates 50th anniversary of Gerald Genta mark

After his eponymous company, trademarks, patents and designs were acquired by Bulgari in 2000, Genta resigned and created a new venture called Gerald Charles. Genta sold his latest brand in 2003, still remaining Gerald Charles' designer-in-chief until his death.

The legacy: 100,000 designs and counting

During his life, Gerald Genta drew over 100,000 watch designs. When he died, he left Évelyne Genta over 3,200 of his designs. This huge selection of drawings is made up of his most famous designs but mostly of unseen pieces.

He is regarded as one of the most influential people in the history of horology. Christie's auction house of New York has called Genta's work "the Fabergé of watches", while The Wall Street Journal has called them the "world's most complicated and pricey watches".

Matterhorn inspiring Genta's creativity

What made Genta special

Genta was not like other watch designers. Influenced by—among other things—nature, Japan, Ferraris and Picasso (who he adored), he had a particular way of working. Gérald Genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. Perhaps most famous for designing the Royal Oak and Nautilus pieces for Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe respectively, Genta's designs also included the Universal Genève Polerouter, the IWC Ingenieur, and the Seiko Locomotive.

Genta himself only designed wristwatches, he preferred not to wear them. Genta was a passionate hiker in the Swiss Zermatt and hence took his inspirations from nature. Especially in the shape of the Matterhorn he saw perfection. To the surprise of many, however, Genta also took on quite profane everyday objects during his creative phase, such as sunglasses and cutlery, attempting to give them his very own personal touch.

Interestingly enough, Genta has actually never been such an obsessed watch enthusiast during his lifetime as one might expect. Instead, he simply utilized watches as a means to an end to express his game-changing design ideas.

The Gérald Genta Heritage Association

The organisation celebrates his work, encourages new design talent in watchmaking and will enable new watches to be made from the 4,000 unused designs in its archives. "The support I've received from the watchmaking community for the Association has been overwhelming and spurs us on in our desire to celebrate Gerald's unparalleled contribution to fine watchmaking," says Mme Genta.

"The design I love most is a watch that people will not know. And that's because Gerald designed the watch for me! But I can say it was inspired by sea urchins."

— Evelyne Genta

Collectibility and market value

Some references are rarer than others. The first-generation Royal Oak 5402ST, the Nautilus 3700/1A, the early Polerouter with crosshair dials, these are holy grails. But condition matters. Original dial, untouched case, matching papers, those details make a big difference. And the value? Steady upward. Some of these pieces have quadrupled in price over the last decade. Not because of hype, but because of history.

If you're looking to start your Genta journey, begin with the ones that are still within reach. A good Polerouter is still a bargain. So is the Ingenieur SL, for now. They give you that Genta magic without having to remortgage your house.

Gérald Genta watches aren't for everyone. They're for the collector who's ready to move past the icons—and start owning the legacy behind them.

The Picasso of watchmaking

Like Ernest Hemingway, Frank Lloyd Wright and Andy Warhol, the product designer Genta emerges from the 20th Century as a towering figure in his field. But unlike his fellow artists, few outside of watchmaking circles know his name. We may never see such dominance again from a designer, especially because in-house teams have largely ousted the freelance ringer.

Genta passed away in August 2011 at the age of 80. Over his life he designed more than 100,000 watches for some of the world's most famous brands. His influence on modern watchmaking cannot be overstated—from establishing stainless steel as a luxury material to creating the luxury sports watch category to pushing the boundaries of complications with the Grande Sonnerie.

The man literally designed the Royal Oak and Nautilus—that should be enough. His own brand was pure creative freedom—no boardrooms, just design and mechanics. Whether it's the Royal Oak on countless wrists worldwide, the Nautilus commanding six-figure prices, or a rare Gefica Safari with bronze case, Genta's designs continue to shape how we think about luxury watches.

Gerald Genta wasn't just a designer. He was a rebel in a finely pressed suit. And his legacy lives on in every integrated bracelet, every octagonal bezel, every luxury sports watch that blurs the line between tool and jewelry. That's the mark of true genius—not just creating icons, but changing an entire industry's direction.